David in Wonderland meets Dude, where's my bag???

Ahhh, the last leg of my Eastern Europe journey... It's always a nice feeling to be near completion of a project, and a travel journey is no exception. After Bulgaria, I caught a 15hour bus from Plovdiv, Bulgaria to Athens. It was an uncomfortable bus ride overnight, since the seats were very upright, and the seats in front bit into my knees when I slouched down. *argh*


Anyway, I arrived in Athens around 6am in the morning, and with sleep still in the eyes, I jumped on the Metro down to the port, Piraeus, to check out ferry times. I had planned to sight see around Athens, and then catch another overnight transport, a Ferry, but I caught one just leaving, after I sprinted across the wharves. Great catch.



I was heading to Santorini, an island so hyped up that the cynic in me thought it would be one big tourist-trap. Well, yes, there were heaps of tourists, but it was the most amazing island. It has withstood countless invasions and stood the test of time, and a few busloads of package tourists are not going to spoil it. I stayed in a little town called Oia (pronounced ee-ya), in a little traditional house (marcosrooms.com.gr) for 90euro for 4 nights, after some tough negotiating down from 120euro. Not bad huh?


Oia is the best place to stay on the island, because it is the most traditional, has the best views of sunset, is perched right on the cliffs of the caldera, and is certainly the most atmospheric. It is beautiful! All the houses are white-washed in stark, intense white paint, and the church domes are painted baby-blue. Because of the lack of space, and the sheer 300m cliffs plummeting into the sea, the buildings are all stacked ontop of each other, for stunning views of the calm waters within the (still bubbling) caldera. The caldera is quite big, about 12km x 7km (wikipedia, don't fail me now!) and encircles the sea on 3 sides - Oia is right on the tip of the island, where the land falls away into the ocean.



Now, Oia is an old town, so the streets are just narrow lanes, and there are plenty of stairs, due to the topography. So, there are no noisy cars to battle with, though there is a lot of foot traffic, particularly at sunset, when the tourist buses descend in their hordes to witness the blood red finish to the day. But Santorini is too special to be spoilt by tourists - there is a timeless beauty and peace about the place. As you wander the winding alleys, at every corner, a beautiful view emerges, and you cannot help but be rivetted to the spot for hours on end as you seek appreciation of what unfolds before you. Clear blue skies under a fierce sun, meeting the sea in a distant horizon, which is broken by the arms of the island which enfold a tranquil bay in a protective embrace. Yachts bob up and down on the deep blue ocean as busy catamarans leave white trails of churned water in their wake. All this is witnessed by the stacks of houses high above, which glisten white in the bright light, all carefully shaped into beautiful straight lines or graceful arcs, punctuated by shuttered windows, shuttered to withstand the fury of the wind and rain of the winter storms, and the heat of the Summer.



I was captivated by the magic of Santorini for 4 days - I would just find a view to enjoy, and just sit for hours on end. It was a Wonderland, and all cares and worries seem to drop from your shoulders when you step onto the island. So, I was fairly relaxed when I headed back to Athens on a night ferry, perhaps a little bit too relaxed! I watched sunrise up at the Acropolis, and then headed down to Syntagma Square, to use the free wifi.



 I plonked myself down on a park bench, slung my bag behind me, and concentrated on punching out an email on my phone. I had a flight back to London that night, so I didn't have long to go. Then a confused man came up to me with a map, speaking French and asking directions - he had a dark complexion, so he was obviously a gypsy. And then it twigged in an instant - he was trying to rob me - and in an instant, my bag was gone! I had been distracted for 2 sec, and when I turned around, my daypack had vanished - I didn't feel or hear a thing, and by the time I realised, it was too late. Damn! My pride has been severely wounded now - I couldn't believe I could have made such a rookie error, and I just had to sit down on the bench, and lament my stupidity - I normally put an arm through a loop of my backpack to stop it getting snatched, but I was so relaxed after Santorini and being near the end of the journey, I was complacent and let my guard down. *sigh* Oh well, I didn't lose anything important - but a lot of little things that I've been busily replacing here in the UK. It was probably a good warning to shape up, because I was getting a little over-confident after such a long time on the road - my vigilance is tripled now, as I head off to Russia tomorrow! Wish me luck!


The Real Eastern Europe: Romania and Bulgaria




After travelling through Croatia, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia, my impressions of Eastern Europe had been drastically changed. I'd always thought Eastern Europe would be poor and gritty, filled with grey ex-communist buildings, but these countries were quite rich. Then I travelled into Romania and Bulgaria, and they lived up to my expectations. Much more down-at-heel and a little frayed around the edges, they leave a little more grit under the fingernails when you come to grips.


Timisoara




They are much more affordable than the more "westernised" Eastern European Countries as well, so you can splash out. I've been enjoying tasting all the local cuisine, without blowing the budget. Romanian food was dominated by polenta, and I mean dominated. One meal had 800g of polenta - that's a lot of polenta!!! I was surprised by how Italian, Romanian culture is - the food is quite Italian, and the language sounds very similar. This is quite interesting, since a lot of the neighbouring countries (Poland, Slovakia, Bulgaria) are slavic-speaking. Bulgaria is definitely Slavic, since they invented the cyrillic alphabet and everything is written in cyrillic. So, it's been good practice reading all the words for my Russian leg.

 Suceava and the Painted Monasteries of Southern Bucovina



Romania tourism is dominated by the myth of Dracula, or Vlad Tepes. Every city you go to has some site connected with Dracula. He was a larger than life character certainly, but no vampire. Nevetheless, he was a blood-thirsty buggar - he used to impale his victims for a most excruciating death - a stake was shoved up the bum, avoiding all vital organs (so you wouldn't die straight away), til it came out the mouth - a very slow, painful death. OUCH!
 Sighisoara




 Brasov


  
Sinaia


Bucharest
 


In Romania, the weather had turned a bit sour on me, with cloudy wet days. However, the weather spruced up in Bulgaria - it's been lovely, but it's made me a bit homesick. The climate reminds me of Melbourne in late October. Spring is in full bloom - you can smell the pollen in the air, and the temperature is just perfect, before the heat of summer sets in, with clear blue skies and cool nights. I've got this funny feeling that it's Xmas now, and it's time to hit the golf course for a cheeky 9 or 18holes after work!

Veliko Tarnovo


 
 
Plovdiv
 






Anyway, I'm leaving Bulgaria tomorrow, for the much more expensive Greece. *sigh* I'll have to tighten the purse strings again, and live like a pauper instead of a king. All that after a 15hr bus ride to Athens! Wish me luck!


The Life of a hapless, homeless Uzbeki hobo in Eastern Europe

So, to set the theme, I'll add some maps to show where I am.
Eastern Europe


Slovakia and Romania


Ok, so I left the parseltongue lady (thanks for the better description, Andrew!) in Zakopane, and crossed the border into Slovakia. Glad I did, because we had had a bbq the night before, and the parseltongue was licking her lips constantly - I don't exaggerate - it was most offputting!

Anyway, decided spur of the moment to stop in Zdiar, and it was a great choice. Stayed at a hostel called Ginger Monkey (http://www.gingermonkey.eu/), and I immediately felt at home. This great Aussie bloke called Dan was working in reception, and we had a great time. I showed him how to blog - he's just getting started on gingergrasshopper.blogspot.com.

I went hiking up in the mountains, after Dan told me it was a great hike. He had pointed up to a snowbound pass and said, "yep, just walk up there, follow that ridge and down to the lake, and you'll get great views". Now, I'm not one for doubting people's advice, but it should have twigged that this would be some hike, when I couldn't see the pass for all the snow and clouds enshrouding it. Hey, but I'm up for a challenge. Hey, and if Dan had done it, there was no way I was turning back. Well, if you're reading this Dan, thanks for the advice, but you should have told me you did the hike in August, not May! :) Anyway, enough whinging. This is what I saw at the top - and no, that is not the yeti, it's me.

This is how deep the snow was.




Here's what the sign said at the top - "F@#$ing Cold!!!"


It was actually a beautiful view from the top (when the clouds cleared), so nothing lost, Dan!


Here's me eating icicles on the way down.



Anyway, I made it back around 7pm, after waiting for the bus for 1hr in wet shoes. Not surprisingly, snow gets in the top of your shoes when you're mid-thigh in it. But, no worries - off to the Goulash Man for a nice warming dinner. I ate at this place 3 times, 3.20 euro for a big bowl of goulash. It was little hole in the wall, which doubles as a small shop. There's 2 tvs, one in the shop, and one in the restaurant, on the same feed. Apparently someone turned on the tv in the restaurant one day, and there was porn on. He must get lonely in there. Goulash was good though!

It snowed overnight again, so Dan and I went tobogganing in these crazy jumpsuits. Notice who chose the pink one! That's the tobaggan in my hand. I think I'm pretty excited!!!



Then, I had to go, with a train to Budapest, and an overnighter to Timisoara. Got a bit of a rude awakening getting into Romania. I lost an hour of sleep, because of the time difference. When I asked the border guard the time, he said "4 oclock. This..." with a flourish "is Romania!" I think this had a lasting impression on my sleep deprived, addled mind - but I liked the drama. Had to change trains in this little town called Arad at 4.30am, and had 6min to transfer, but the train was late, so I had to wait another 3hrs for the next one. The waiting room smelt terrible, like stale beer, and I eventually knew why, looking around me. All the homeless people were sleeping in there, snoring. And when the guards came in, they checked tickets and kicked them all out - I would have thought they wouldn't have bothered with me, not looking very Romanian, but they did. I know I dress down, but to be mistaken for a bum... the shame!

But things would make sense, and 2 and 2 would make 4. And it happened today. Today, I walked out of a restaurant, and the man following me said "Uzbeki?" I laughed nervously, and said Australian, then went straight back to the hostel, and shaved. I need to clean up my appearance! I don't want to test fate and find out what Romanians think of Uzbekis! I've heard of what Russians think of them! Better to look like a harmless Japanese tourist!

Nightmares in Hostels

Well, I was in Krakow, and was in this awesome hostel called Hostel Deco. It was probably the best value hostel I have ever stayed in, with beautiful solid wooden bunks, trendy retro styling with photos of Garbo (I think), massive table in the middle of the room, spotless bathrooms, and a great breakfast. http://www.hostelbookers.com/property/index.cfm?fuseaction=propertyDynamic.overview&intpropertyID=5634&strArrivalDate=2011-05-04&intNights=2
There was only one problem with it. I could not sleep well in that room! I kept on having nightmares. Well, I came to the conclusion that someone must have died in that room, or in that bed. Ridiculous, I know, but what other plausible explanation is there, because I sleep like a log?
I have my cousins to blame for these thoughts. They told me ghost stories in London:
1. A friend had to get drunk each night, because she needed a drunken sleep to ignore the ghost getting into her bed each night. *argh*
2. My cousins asked me which room I'm sleeping in, in Cambridge. I asked "WHY DO YOU ASK!???" Because there's one room that doesn't like girls. "WHAT!!!" Yeah, we always have nightmares in that room - it doesn't like us. (I'm not sure if I can stay in that house anymore, by the way).
So, anyway, I told my room mate, Nancy, in Hostel Deco, and she told me some more ghost stories:
3. One day, she was icing her ankle, and fell asleep. When she woke, hours later, the ice had no melted! But she didn't realise put 2 and 2 together, until she had a bath one day, and found the water never got cold, then had a bath another day, and the water went freezing. She mentioned this to her housemate, and she matter-of-factly said - yeah, we've got a friendly male ghost, he does things with water. If it bothers you, I can burn some incence to get rid of him. Nancy just shrugged her shoulders, but I would have flipped out.
Anyway, so I'm in Zakopane now, and I really didn't sleep well. My new housemate is an older lady, and she is always licking her lips like a snake, and making funny noises. She took so long to get ready for bed as well, and then she did a very peculiar thing - she went to the window with a plastic bag in the moonlight. Well, after hearing the ghost stories, I of course thought was burning incence or something, or leading a seance. Great, in the same room as snake lady who talks with the dead. Hmmm, I'll sleep well tonight! And no, I didn't sleep well. I keep on waking up, expecting to see her standing over me in the middle of the night, backlit by moonlight... I gotta go now - she's coming back into the room!

PS - My nightmares in Hostel Deco were about my football team, the HAWKS losing... No wonder I couldn't sleep.

PPS - some photos from a sleepwalk in Krakow, Poland. I just found them on my camera - I guess the ghost must have taken them. ;)


Secrets of the Balkans

I've stumbled across some hidden treasures in this trip through the Balkans. Here are some highlights:

Meteora, Greece
I remarked to Belinda, as we walked back after a fantastic day's hiking, that Meteora has some of the most impressive scenery I have seen. It reminded me a bit of Capadoccia in Turkey, with churches perched precariously on strange shaped and rather large rock formations. The rocks appeared as though they were melting into the ground, and were striped with multi-coloured layers. The churches were built right to the edges of the rocks as well, and were intricately constructed.


Gjirokastra, Albania
A Unesco City, full of old Ottoman houses, one of which we stayed in. This was the best place I have ever stayed in, bar none. And it only cost 30euros a night! The roof and wardrobes and fittings were all carved from wood, with beautiful carpets on the floor, and a wall full of windows. You closed the room, by pulling a bar across the door, from the wall.



Kotor, Montenegro
This was a gem of a city, with a small compact old city, which could be easily explored, set on a pancake-flat bay. There was a castle perched up on the mountains, which ringed the bay. You could climb the castle, for spectacular views.